My Coast to Coast Bike Ride Across the North America
This is the largest state on the trip and took me the longest time to get through (12 days).
The Montana Frontage Road runs across the state along I-90 west of Billings and I-94 east of it. It is well paved with light traffic for the most part. Even without shoulders, it is a good option for coast-to-coast rides. But it can be discontinued for various reasons (private properties, geography, etc.) and other road options, including interstate highways, must be used.
There were roadside memorials of the same types of crosses in MT. They could be a single cross, or several together. The most I saw was five. Sometimes, they were separated by small distances. I guess they belonged to different families or groups perished in the same accidents. I saw such roadside memorials more on the local roads than interstate highways. No other state has such consistent roadside memorials throughout the entire state.
Day 16 August 18 St Regis to Alberton
With the guilt of camping without permit, we quickly packed and left in the morning without cooking breakfast. The original plan was to reach Missoula MT today. But the steep hills forced Peter to walk a lot and it quickly became clear that we couldn’t do that.
We stopped at Superier to refuel and met two local fellas. One offered us beers which we’d love to accept if we didn’t have to ride the rest of the day. The other was Ed. He had done bikepacking but enjoyed riding his beach cruiser in the summer. We discussed camping options between here and Missoula.
We continued and were surprised that we ended up on the official GART (Great American Rail Trail). The surroundings were beautiful and quiet with only bird chirps and remote dog barks.
The entire ride today was along the Clark Fork River and I-90. Fishing and rafting are common along the river. Many “fishing accesses” with parking spaces, tables and toilets. But overnight camping is not allowed. Just as we started to think about our water, we came upon a rafting facility with a restroom, tap water, tables, and flat lawn. A perfect campsite. No one was around. We served ourselves with water and used the restroom but puzzled why we didn’t know about this.
US Old Hwy 10 (well paved) continued to a private property that doesn’t allow anyone to pass. We were trying to figure out what to do. The only other option was to ride on I-90. The property owner mysteriously showed up on his ATV with his dog (Peter thought he saw us on his security camera). He absolutely refused our pleas to let us through. He said he was fed up by Ride with GPS and google map that repeatedly sent riders to his property. Can’t blame him. We had to ride on I-90. It turned out to be a pleasant experience. The shoulders were wide and smooth without debris. The traffic was light. Most drivers were cautious and moved to the further lane when passing us. It felt safer than riding on some local roads without shoulder and with traffic.
Camped at Water Edge near Alberton. A nice place with camping sites, bar/restaurant and casino by the Clark Fork Rivers. Food at the restaurant was super. A busy railroad with trains running through the night was across the river from the campsite. My earplugs saved my sleep that night.
Day 17 August 19 Alberton to Missoula
We continued to ride along Clark Fork. I met Nate who was on his way from New Jersey to WA. We exchanged information of the route conditions ahead of us. He shared with me his digital route maps which later turned out to be very helpful.
I took a rest at a fire station. A firefighter let me in to use the bathroom. It is a complete living suite with a kitchen, a living room, a full bathroom and bedrooms. Some riders said they always stayed at fire stations.
Missoula is a magnet to cyclists. The Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) headquarters is there. ACA has been one of the main forces to promote national networks of bike trails to encourage more people to make bike tours to see the country and enjoy nature. Most cross- continent bike riders consult the routes recommended by ACA. But, ACA had been struggling financially in recent years. Its incomes are from membership fees, sales of their bike route maps, and charges for guided bike tours. Their traditional bike routes are mainly on paved roads. Recognizing the increasing popularity of gravel and mountain bikes, they started to explore unpaved bike routes. Their HQ is situated in a nice building. But they had decided to sell it and move to a small space because many of their staff work remotely and they don’t need the current space to host their local staff.
We visited the ACA HQ. They weighed my bike + bags. They were 84 lb – in the middle of the range of all who passed here (40 – 115 lb). They took a picture of Peter and me together, which was posted on their photo board that shows all cross-continent riders who stopped there. There are many.
Day 18 August 20 Rest in Missoula
A resting day. Peter got his bike fixed (a loose bottom bracket), and I got my front tubeless tire resealed. We did laundry, updated our journals, photos, and Peter’s blog. I shopped for food for the coming day.
Peter made an important decision: He realized that his climbing capability or a lack of it had held me back during the past three weeks and we had lost precious time (we used up 30% of our allocated two months for this trip but covered only less than 20% of the total distance). At this pace, we would not complete the trip as planned by September 30, which was the latest for me because of my two months of leave without pay from my work. Peter also realized that it would be extremely difficult for him to climb over the Rockies. So he decided to skip this climbing part by renting a car, driving to Billings on the east side of the Rockies, and resuming his ride from there. The hope was sometime later I might catch him up down the road.
I supported his decision. It was not easy for either of us. As Peter said, we had faced many difficulties during the past three weeks and we overcome them together. Now we would have to deal with any problem we might have alone. This would be a test of our independence and resilience. At that time, I was sure even if I might pick up some speed and cover more distance each day, whether I had enough time to reach the east coast as I planned, given the uncertainties of weather, my bike, and my body. I decided to accept the reality that I might not complete the trip as I wanted and return home from wherever I might be when time was up. Meanwhile, I decided to ride as much and cover as much distance as I could.
We decided to keep in touch every day. I had an advantage that Peter would scout the road condition ahead of me and advise me what to avoid.
Day 19 August 21 Missoula to Garrison
With bittersweet feelings, Peter and I hugged good-by in the morning. I didn’t know that his last solo overnight bike camping trip was when he was a teenager. “Time to grow up” I said to him, while I had my own uncertainty of how I would fare on my solo ride in the coming days.
It was a great joy to ride on my own pace. The route was still along the Clark Fork River. But I became unsensitized to the sceneries. They are still pretty but repetitive. Scenery fatigue?
The map led me to an MRL service road. It was not a road at all. There were merely two truck tire tracks on the side of a railroad. Very difficult to ride on because of the track ballasts. A train passed by and the train driver must have wondered why this fool was there. The map showed a switch to a paved road but it was fenced off because of the private property. I could not continue on this and had to unload the panniers and tent, push the bike over a ditch, and load again on the other side where the paved road was.
Met Wade riding from Portland ME to Portland OR. We exchanged road information. “Enjoy with grace” he said. Also Met 82-year-old Steve who was on his way from Napels FL to Seattle on his ebike. He had to stay in a hotel every night to charge his bike. I was not sure how he would do in east WA where small towns were far apart and all of them didn’t have hotels or motels.
Passed through Drummond. The men’s room of the bar and grill I stopped for lunch was interestingly decorated.
I decided to detour from the planned route which would lead me to cross the Rockies through Butte. In Missoula, everyone suggested me to go through Helena with much prettier sceneries along paved roads. Garrison would be a logical stop for the day for me to pursue that route. There was no road from Drummond to Garrison except I-90. I rode on it again.
I arrived early (2:30 pm) at the Riverfront Campground of Garrison. Its lounge and kitchen were open to campers. It provided wifi and hot shower. I found cold shower was good for me that day.
Day 20 August 22 Garrison to Three Forks
This was supposed to be a tough day to climb across the Rockies through the McDonald Pass. Route 12 was nicely paved with shoulders that varied between wide (> 5 ft) and nonexisting. A long gentle climb turned into a deep hill (5-7%). This is the same grade I trained myself repeatly for this trip. So it was not a surprise except this one was much longer than the hill I was trained on. Headwinds didn’t help. The reward of the long climb was a great view of a valley from the MaDonald Pass where the Continental Divide was.
Descending to Helena was nerve racking, with constant braking and curving. Twenty years ago I’d be thrilled to ride this. Now I prefer to climb slowly. Didn’t see much of the city of Helena. Had my only Japanese meal (Ramen noodle) of the trip there. From Helena on it was gentle descent, tailwinds, or both. Crossed the Missouri River.
Wheel line irrigation was everywhere. Saw sandhill cranes. They often appeared in pair. They are local to MT.
With the tailwind and descent, I went all the way to Three Forks.
Day 21 August 23 Three Forks to Livingston
Surprisingly there were nice, paved bike trails in small towns such as Three Forks (Headwaters Trail System), Manhattan, and Belgrade. Saw more sandhilk cranes. Passing by Manhattan without stopping. Its city park had a nice lawn, restrooms, and a pavilion. It could be an ideal place to camp.
Passed through Bozeman, a growing city with MSU and new tech companies. Later I learned that there is a housing crisis here. After Bozeman was another pass (Bozeman Pass) to climb. It was difficult maybe because my legs were not fully recovered from the previous day of climbing the McDonald Pass, or maybe I didn’t mentally prepare for it. It was less 3000 ft total that day, which I had done many times on my training rides.
Settled in Livingston and had fun with their annual beer festival. A band was playing and people were dancing.
Day 22 August 24 Livingston to Billings
Now the ride was along the Yellowstone River. It was wide but shallow. Many deers and sandhill cranes.
It was supposed to be an easy ride with gentle downhill all the way. But headwinds counteracted against the gravity and I would slow down if not peddling.
Spotted a house on the top of a completely burned hill. Not sure if it survived the fire or rebuilt.
I stopped at 307 Bar&Grill in Columbus for lunch. There I met Mark. He is a local, working in the railroad business – fixing cargo carts. He likes bike camping but his is a motorcycle. Three years to go to retire. His retirement plan is to convert a school bus into a RV and travel with his wife. He called me a legend. I corrected him that I was only a pre-legend before I completed the trip. He got me a 307 hat as a souvenir. We took a selfie. When we departed, his last words to me: “Keep the faith. May Lord be with you.” I always have the faith that people everywhere are genuinely nice.
I was tired toward the end but determined to ride on to Billings where I could take a rest day. This turned out to be the longest daily ride of the trip (124.6 mi).
Day 23 August 25 Rest in Billings
Got the bike checked by a shop (Spoke Shop) and mailed unused stuff back home (newbies always bring more than they need). The hotel didn’t have guest laundry and there was no laundromat nearby. Hand washed my cycling clothes. I have been asking people about the bear presence in MT. They all said bears were either to the north near Canada or south in the Yellowstone National Park, but not where I rode. The bike shop people confirmed that I didn’t need bear spray. One fewer thing to carry.
Chatted with Rachel, a flight attendant, at lunch. She confirmed the unfair treatment of flight attendants by the airlines: Flight attendants are paid by hours they spend in the air. If a flight is delayed and sitting on tarmac, they don’t get paid for their work on the plane until the plane takes off. This got to change. She told me that they have self-defense martial art training. They never use that even on violent passengers. They try to understand why some passengers behave that way. Too much alcohol is the number one reason. Some just had a bad day, she said. She also informed me that before they fly to glamours cities such as Paris and Tokyo, they have to fly to many small cities, such as Billings. I was not surprised.
Had grilled ribs for dinner, which I have been craving for days.
Billings’s economy partially depends on the fracking industry in North Dakoda. Migrant oil workers pass through here on their way home or stay here during holidays. Railroad passing through is active. It got big cities’ perks (many restaurants, bars, and hotels) as well as their curses (crimes, neglected neighborhoods). I saw homeless people that I did see in any of the small towns.
Day 24 August 26 Billings to Forsyth
The route continued to follow the Yellowstone River. Now the Rockies was behind me. No more large mountains. Only small hills. Most of the route was paved. But I did get on an unpaved road with loose surface. I struggled through.
I saw boots on tops of farmland fenceposts, which is common in Texas. This is the only time I saw them on this trip. The reason or meaning of this practice is uncertain. There are several interpretations: to keep the boots not used anymore which are testaments of hardworking and shouldn’t be thrown away; to symbolize retirement from farming; to commemorate a deceased farmer, and simply to have fun. I wish I had a chance to ask the farmer.
I stopped at River Bottom Bar and Grill in Hysham to rest. I order a soda water. The lady didn’t charge it. “On the house”.
In Forsyth, after learning why I was there, a lady asked “Why are you doing this?” Not knowing what else to say, I replied “To punish myself for my sins”. She smiled, “Got it”.
Day 25 August 27 Forsyth to Terry
The persistent headwinds everyday were annoying. I was expecting tailwinds all the time. But the Weather Goddess had her own plan. She also likes to trick those who attempted to study her. I had to accept whatever she offered but couldn’t help but curse the misinformation of climatology.
Continued to suffer from scenery fatigue. The same beautiful landscape under the big sky, nothing spectacular anymore. Even the Yellowstone River looked ordinary. The contrast between irrigated green and natural brown was nevertheless stark.
Saw five crosses together at a roadside memorial. You have to feel the pain of those who might have survived the traffic accident there and the victims’ extended family.
Stayed in the Kempton Motel in Terry. It was built in 1902 and has not been closed for a single day since it was opened. Roy, the owner of the motel for 39 years, is a retired civil engineer designing buildings. His book collection is in the hotel.
My map would send me to I-94 but Roy told me the local road was pretty good. I follow his instruction and rode on Old Highway 10. It turned out be a nicely paved road. Always consult and follow the local wisdom.
Day 26 August 28 Terry to Glendive
This was a short ride intended to give me a half-day rest.
Aa a Fedex truck passed me, the driver tapped his horn in the rhythm
..- ..- ….-
It brought me a big smile. I waved my arm high in the air. I was sure the driver saw it in the rear mirror.
Chidong Zhang's WA2MA Bike Trip 